Brunch, the best meal ever, always poses a difficult question: high brow or low brow? Usually I prefer my brunch to be a low brow but delicious affair, which explains nearly weekly visits to the Tavern. But it’s fun to mix it up every once in awhile with a more highfalutin Sunday, so this past weekend we hit up the Horse & Hound Gastropub. If you’re somehow unsure if your brunch spot is low brow or high brow, the presence of either mimosas on the menu or gastro in the restaurant title is a neon sign confirmation that you’re in fancyland.
While the primary focus of the Horse & Hound menu is their upscale burgers, I tried a burger there once and have to admit I did not like it. So I come back to Horse & Hound for one reason and one reason only: the french fries. Boy, do they do fries right. They even serve them in an awesome silver bucket so you know you’re really in a gastropub. And they’re delicious: they look somewhat wilted but possess great crispiness, the flavor is salty decadence without too much grease, and there are more in that bucket than you could ever eat.
Other brunch staples are just so-so: the eggs benedict and french toast sandwich were too dominated by the bread and the benedict’s hollandaise sauce was too heavy. In the pursuit of scientific rigor, we sampled a mimosa, bellini, and bloody mary (the bellini won). So while everything else was just so-so, give me a bucket of delicious french fries and a good bellini to start off a Sunday and you’ve got yourself a 3-star rating.
Jed says: “Like all the food, the bloody mary looks very tasty, and though the flavors are strong, they’re too strong. After a few sips you’re done. Avoid it unless you’re planning a liquid-only brunch.”
Rating: Erin: Jed:
Pros: Fries in silver bucket, Sunday cocktails, great outdoor seating, parking lot in back.
Cons: Non-fries food just so-so.
Price: Brunch dishes $8-18, burgers $9-11.
Parking: Free parking lot behind the restaurant.
Google’s map of Horse & Hound is strangely wrong (see below). Go to the Horse & Hound web site instead.